Iraq is a country unlike anywhere else on earth: the birthplace of civilisation, home to ancient waterways, extraordinary landscapes and cities shaped by thousands of years of history. Yet decades of conflict have obscured this complexity. 

From the vibrant streets of Baghdad to the vast Mesopotamian marshes, from Kurdistan’s dramatic mountains to the ancient ruins of Babylon, they encounter a country where the ancient and contemporary constantly collide. They discover underground car culture, female skate crews, graffiti festivals, traditional food, forgotten crafts and communities determined to preserve their heritage.

For decades, Iraq’s modern history has been dominated by Saddam Hussein, the Gulf Wars, invasion and the rise of ISIS, shaping how the country is understood around the world. Now, Iraqi-Australian Fay, returning to the country she left as a child, and her Australian filmmaker husband Parv invite us to see what treasures lie beyond the headlines.